Allah ‘o Abha!

Darakeh, Evin. Persia. Aug. 31, 1920

Dear, dear Bahai Sister: -

Here are Dr. Clock, Mrs Draeger (the German Bahai friend) and I nine miles or so to the north of Tehran right up in the mountains – the Elburz. It is quite out of the general run of the usual summer flight – which is in the valley parallel to ours, but not accessible from here unless one goes back and crosses the foothills. There the outflung villages and gardens are spread over a wider, but shallower space and it takes longer to really get up into the mountains where the crowd is less – while here there are only the villagers in their brown mud houses built into the hillsides and forming with them a grey-brown monotone – from the opposite hillside these quite resemble the homes of the ancient cliff-dwellers of Arizona, New Mexico or there about that one sees reproduced in the N.Y. Museum of Natural History.

a.m. Sept 1st.

All this was written in the twilight and as we have only a lantern and cannot work at night and so go to bed early, you will please overlook the awful scrawl. [page 2, image 85] We have probably told you how different these mountains are - quite bare of trees or verdure except for the rare green spots along the beds of thin mountain streams. And along the bare mountain sides a faint tinge of bluish-green hints of the presence of spiny, coarse camel-thorn and vetches, on which, incredible as it may seem, the numerous sheep and goats graze. Cows are rare, and mutton is the superior meat altho’ there is no comparison to our own mutton or beef in the U.S. Similarly it follows that the milk is “thinner” & inferior in flavor tho’ thanks to an enterprising Belgian since the last twenty years separators have been introduced and we do get butter - at the average rate of about 70 cts per lb. (Rather a prosaic interpolation here [illegible]). But in spite of and perhaps because of this general barrenness (to hark back) you can have no idea of the delicate opalescent change in color with each changing light and perspective. Sometimes in distance at twilight, the whole harmony of tints merging into an intense deep electric blue. How I wish you could have seen the view of Teheran in the distance through a gap in these mountains. It was for all the world like a stage setting, that makes one catch ones breath and yet think an exaggeration of Nature. Yet here, were [where?] the mountain sides, like dull stage wings. The dull green of the intervening village in the fore ground, then Teheran a duller spot spread in the centre of the desert plain against the smokey blue shaded Kuhe - Bibi Sharebanoo, [page 3, image 86] a long, many folded, low, ridge, rich in traditional lore and with the great white “Tower of Silence” even at this distance clearly punctuated on its slope. Then, somehow marvelously piercing through clouds invisible to us, a great shaft of brilliant orange light, shot across the plain from behind the western wing of mountain, illuminating in sharp contrast everything in its path. I can never forget it. Sometimes when we go up the mountain trail as always when the sun has disappeared into its burning joys behind the western slope, tho’ a full hour before the actual sunset, we look behind for the invariable glimpse at Teheran and see only the long leviathan of Bibi-Shahrebanoo Mt. looming up in the background, as an island in a sea of mist under which Teheran & all its plain seem to lie buried. Then on we go up the valley, sometimes perching on the serpentine trail, always taking in the varying scenery and character of the slopes and glimpses thro’ the gaps on toward the Joe-chähl, the highest ridge in this vicinity running east & west and thus shutting off the northern horizon. Even now, after months of intense heat, we still glimpse “patches” of snow, in its folds. As Bertha & I do the tramping, & poor dear Dr. Clock was detained in town because of the arrival of three babies, we had hoped to make the proud ascent of this before Dr. joined us - for we should be obliged to leave her alone over night. But an unfortunate indisposition of mine prevented while we yet had time. However, we have tramped so far up the valley as [page 4, image 87] to have taken in all of the fair-sized falls the stream it accomplishes in its descent.

Here, too, one can, because of the bareness, better appreciate the rocks and mountains structure, and trace the course of great primeval upheavals and glacial action. You will be interested to know that, like all of upper New York state as you may have observed it in the region of the “Five-Finger Lakes,” like Cascadilla & Buttermilk Gorges at Cornell Camus and Ithaca – all built on slate rock bed – so here the rock layers are clearly distinct - in many places as we climb where there is no trail, the “rotten” or crumbling cracked rock, coming off in sharp razor-like rectangular pieces of “shale”. In fact, all the smooth looking mountain slopes are so covered with this shale in varying stages of decay, consequently in varying coarseness, that, when you seek a footing, you set a shower of sliding pebbles down the steep slope – after following after in spite of the woven moccasin-like native shoes (of coarse cotton weave with flat soles women or strung on some kind of animal tendon (also of cloth and much resembling a thick “rag-carpet.”).

Unless one is equipped with such “geeveh” it is useless to try to go about in these places. These ubiquitous sharp stones would turn ones ankles on the lowest of heels. We also took the precaution of having a layer of leather fastened on the heel end with studdings of large flat-headed nails! In addition we carry [page 5, image 88] a staff cut from a sapling, thus acquiring an extra “leg” in case of difficult balance. Bertha is very small while I am about Mrs. Caldwell’s height, but she is very cool-headed and a wonderful mountain-climber. I find ascending [“ascending” underlined] far easier than descending [“descending” underlined] - with her it is the opposite, perhaps because she takes shorter steps. I have tried [“tried” underlined] to take a few snapshots with old films (I had a parting gift of a 3A - postcard size - tho’ I’d never been able to indulge in the luxury of amateur photography) and if there is any “recognizable” result, you shall have a specimen or two. You see it is the first time since I’ve been in Persia that I’ve had a real vacation. [Illegible] I’ve been able to get sufficiently or entirely away from the constant strain which has been greater than anyone would imagine. I have never in my life been able to get into the mountains. Even in the U.S. my love for the seaside claimed my limited time. But here we’ve camped for six glorious free weeks on a little flat, terraced out of the mountain-side and planted with great-leaved walnut trees; otherwise it is dry & bare of grass – the stream babbling down its rocky bed just below. At the upper end of the terrace is the first of the seven mills which grace this valley. All run by water and in the most primitive fashion, and I wish you might have enjoyed visiting them with us. Beyond, there is no habitation, so you see we are at the headwaters and for once are sure of [page 6, image 89] a drink of pure, unpolluted water. For in town, we are fortunate in having a well dug down to an underground stream purported to have no openings which, if there be, are invariably polluted! There is no water or even sewage system, and so much water coming into the city in ordinary ditches is lost by percolating into the ground - to say nothing of the shocking lack of sanitation.

Just now I was interrupted by the mill-boy going past, and asked why the ladies he was guiding (city-folks) did not go farther, but had turned back so soon. He said they were not intent on tramping – it was only to get the water coming from under the great millstones. Why? Because they had paid a priest money for directions for a love philtre! That their husbands might remain faithful & not divorce them (a most frequent calamity here). They had to visit seven [“seven” underlined] mills, collect this special [“special” underlined] water leave their faces in it, and then drink it. So the poor foolish things made the long circuit of seven of these nine [“nine” underlined] mills (they just told me there are nine [“nine” underlined]) along the river bed in the broiling sun of noon, to work this “magic” on their rascally, tho’ unsuspecting husbands.

I’m sure that Dr. Clock (whose “bark” is always the opposite of her “bite”) would say she’d give them a philtre with something stronger & more dangerous in it.

[page 7, image 90] Now, my dear, forgive all this digression – it is all purely selfish. I have left all my cares behind and lived like a bird. Yet I know I’ll be able to “tackle” my problems and the responsibilities facing me with a saner viewpoint. Oh, for wise! The Blessed Master always adjures us to obtain poise – poise and capacity. Now that we are on the verge of return to Teheran and Duty [“Duty” underlined], I begin to wonder whether we’ll be able to squeeze in the annual school affair or entertainment or picnic of the Persian variety: for in less than two weeks Moharram, a month of mourning is upon us, when all Islam goes into black dresses & headkerchiefs for 2 months. It would be extremely intactful [“in” of intactful underlined] and most unwise to do anything that savored of gayety (of course for me who have to engineer the picnic it is always the contrary of gayety) but as we have no Persian calendar here in camp with us I can’t say definitively. Therefore, though we have a prize of ten tomans to be given on the part of Roy [or Ray] Wilhelm, two gold lire from a very sweet and noble Persian lady, and perhaps the things you were intending to send may arrive (via Baghdad which has been our best standby). But best of all, I have the pleasure of telling you that 40 or 50 tomans of your most precious original fund goes toward the making of new desk seats for the little ones. So large has our primary class become that we have three first grade rooms, which will doubtless develop two second [“second” underlined] grade rooms before the year is out. I am doing all in my power to raise or get the committee to back me in sufficient funds to organize an ad-[page 8, image 91]vanced (post-graduate if a seventh grade can be called) course for our graduates and put Ghodsieh in charge. The feeling here is more in sympathy with domestic & child training work than higher instruction (tho’ what they need is a renewed and more solid academic basis that future “better teachers” can be evolved - the crying need of Persia.)

I hate to talk too much about a thing and then have it fizzle down to nothing, but the program as I see it would be to get in the domestic arts by a modified “girl-scout” movement (applicable to Persian conditions) thro’ the spirit of play & emulation incidentally establishing a lasting organization and steadily but definitely have one set of girls “re-foundationed” and built up into a set of the best teachers the inevitable limitations will permit to establish a really proper school system and then only will there be the nucleus which shall evolve by the assistance of the Most Merciful into the Tarbiat Schools which the Beloved Master has foretold - to which, they shall turn from all countries!

Do you now begin to realize your glorious privilege and what you have done (and how wisely) in contributing your efforts and strength and help to this inestimably great work?

I fear the great majority are as yet blind to the enormity, the [page 9, image 92] significance of this most fertile field; because it is still so obscure and in its incipiency. Blessed are they who have the vision to see the limitless influence for good to all humanity throughout the world thus becoming manifest - being [“being” underlined] manifest through the Spirit of El Abha! Blessed - thrice blessed are they who can appreciate this work [“this work” underlined] at this time [“this time” underlined]. The Jesuits of old had such appreciation. “Give us a child [“child” underlined] till its seventh [“seventh” underlined] year and do whatsoever you will thereafter.” Here in Persia today, where religious rancor & prejudice are so strong, and the outward symbol of the Mashrak-el-Azkar is not yet possible - there is but one concrete object to represent the Cause of Baha’ollah and that is the Tarbiat Schools which are indeed the beginning of the Mashrak-el-Azkar, for our techniques consider the school a necessary member to the whole body of the ultimate temple. So you see how truly Abdol Baha tells you you are engaged in an exalted work. Only our knowledge of the great drawbacks and obstacles in the people themselves tells us how proportionately great is the need for the best schools [“best schools” underlined]. This is the real practical hope - the real translation of Bahai principles into action - for the Future of Persia!

[page 10, image 93] It is this thot that is conducive to impatience when I see how far we are even from the present possibilities and with my own limitations no intelligent help it is only the Power of the Infinite that has conduced to steady progress. Of course all strong foundations are slow in building - but in this [“this” underlined] Day and with a proper staff!! But there must be a great vision in it all: they cannot pay the present staff adequately - and it is best for the Persian character to pay what they can. But certainly, if we had our own buildings [“buildings” underlined] it would [“would” underlined] advance the work tremendously.

So dear sister, let us thank GOD that he has united us in such a Cause and particularly such a work and let us pray continuously each morning - “Is there any Remover of difficulties beside GOD? Say! Praise be to GOD! He is GOD! All are His servants all are standing by His Commands.”

By the Blessed Bab.

If you can do so conveniently, would you please pass this on to the Obers, then if you wished, they could again return it to you. (Also Ahmad.)

I have written thanking Abdol Baha for his heavenly kindness in sending on your draft expressly mentioning for the school building [“for the school building” - each word underlined] (you can scarcely appreciate the significance [page 11, image 94] of that!) and sent it doubly registered that I might get the receipt in His blessed signature – for of course I had to bank the check containing his signature (and that leads to last but not [“not” underlined] least by far – our dear, beloved Elizabette Stewart (Mrs. Brittingham’s niece) having been long and rather dangerously ill, – the way was suddenly opened whereby she could make the holy pilgrimage which was ideal not only spiritually but even physically – thus giving her the Ideal Vacation: She was going with some English friends who tho’ knowing something of the Cause, were not interested – yet when starting, Mrs. New (our friend) said if it were not for her infant twins she would stop off and go to Acca with “Betty.” It had been planned they should go via Baghdad (the only way out of Persia besides the extreme South, at present) to Egypt, where Elizabette would go on to Acca and they would continue with their three children to England. Mr. New, the husband, who is Director of the Persian Telegraphs expects to go on reaching Washington in time for a great telegraphic convention there.

[page 12, image 95] As Elizabette had steadily refused to leave Persia, and I was shipped off up here in a hurry to recover from a fit of malaria I had no idea Elizabette was going until thro’ a muleteers letters came to us from Dr. Moody & Dr. Clock announcing the great event as already past – that is she had already left. Can you imagine how happy we are for her and how eagerly we shall look for her return? And isn’t it an exquisite thought that she can talk to Abdol Baha in his own tongue? and of course with all the blessed household.

Before closing must again thank you for the endlessly useful acquisition of the Ladies’ Home Journal which is reaching us regularly. The Geographic Magazine you mentioned has not put in any appearance, but will be infinitely useful – (I’m a crank on the uses of Geography – even when maps are changed!) May I suggest that you put in occasional sheets of plain typewriting paper between the leaves, when you send these or newspapers? Very useful.

Finally must not close without telling that we received copies of Sunday N.Y. Times picture supplement showing Ahmad’s & Juenta’s marriage group. We have read his wonderful tablet or words on Marriage [“Marriage” underlined]. Best love to dear Shahnas Khanum. A Belgian friend here left her piano with us while she was gone in Europe and so we enjoy singing her hymns to its accompaniment. Especially “At Eventide”. Love from us all In His Name,

Lillian Kappes